Know Your Vino

This is the time of year that inspires lists, whether they’re about books, movies, music, food or news. Critics and columnists like to take a look back, compiling and recapping their best-of guides. For me, of course, it’s all about wine.

I can’t say I’m sad to see 2008 end. However, I can look back at it with many fond memories, especially in relation to my many wonderful wine experiences, which include all the remarkable people in the industry I met, readers, supporters and the many glasses of wine raised in celebration with family and friends. It was a very interesting year, and before I lay it to rest, I’ve put together a list of favorites. These wines were selected because they were true to the region, true to the varietal grape and true to the winemaker – something that the winemaker would be proud to serve. And, at least to some extent, true to its price.

Sean Minor, 4 Bears Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County, California ($14). I chose this crisp white wine in February to lift the spirits. This is a snappy white wine to brighten even the most gray and gloomy winter day. This vivid wine has pronounced aromas of citrus, lemon, grapefruit, nectarine, tropical fruit and white melon, rounded out by a hint of mineral. On the palate, the wine is fresh and lively without being aggressive. You will experience flavors of citrus, melon, figs, quince and apples with a captivating minerality and lemon crème finish that makes it well-balanced and very easy to enjoy. This wine will pair with a lot of different foods, but try it with a creamy saffron and seafood risotto or Cajun grilled shrimp. It would also be lovely with warm winter chowders, bisques or bouillabaisse.

Ten Spoon, Prairie Thunder, Missoula, Montana ($20). In March, I selected this wine not only because it was a great wine, but it benefits a great cause. Andy Sponseller and Connie Poten of Ten Spoon Vineyard and Winery donated $1 for every bottle purchased to the nonprofit Vital Ground Foundation, which protects grizzly habitat. Who can deny such an easy and enjoyable way to pay it forward? This wine is a blend of Petite Syrah and Zinfandel grapes grown at Redwood Valley Vineyard in Mendocino County. Aromas of raspberry and dried cranberry radiate to the nose, with just a hint of violet and kirsch. The fresh, crisp fruit flavors of Bing cherry, brambleberry and raspberry fill the palate and are rounded out with notes of plum pepper, Nutella and spice. Pair this wine with just about anything – it’s a great food wine. Try your favorite pasta dish with red sauce or enjoy it alongside a plate of bread, cheese, olives and charcuterie.

Bella Glos, Taylor Lane, Sonoma Coast, California ($55). I had this bottle of wine several times this year, and every instance was memorable. In March, I wrote about it as one of my top Pinot Noir picks and today it’s making the list as my favorite Pinot Noir of 2008. This wine is a dark garnet color with sweet aromas of candied black cherry, plum, cola, mulberry, earth and smoke. In the mouth it’s equally huge, dominated by ripe cherries, cranberry and plum, seasoned with exotic spices, minerals and barbecue smoke. The dark, brooding fruit is supported by substantial ripe, fleshy tannins and good acidity. This wine is definitely bold and ripe with multiple layers and a long finish that is rich and expansive. Deft balance and flavor integration make this wine easy to enjoy and pair with food. Try it with lamb chops, pork tenderloin in brown sage sauce or wiener schnitzel.

Twin Vines Vinho Verde, Portugal ($7). This wine flew off the shelves in July after I wrote about it. It was a great bottle to beat the heat on the cheap. I learned my lesson to stock up on my favorite wines before I publish, as by the time I went to get some, everyone was out. On the nose, there are lively, honeyed aromas of fresh floral and citrus that include hints of winter melon, just-cut zucchini, cucumber juice, green apple skins, white flowers and key lime rind. In the mouth, this wine is zippy on the palate and slightly prickly with freshly crushed northern gooseberries, white currants, honeydew melon, Granny Smith apples, lime zest, citrus peel and powerful hints of minerals. It finishes with a lively note of lemon drop and apple cider. Its razor-sharp acidity and ocean freshness make it a great aperitif or a perfect partner for everything from fried veggies to fresh shrimp. Or try it with fresh clams and mussels braised in garlic and wine, shellfish paella or tuna tartar.

Laxas Albarino, Spain ($15). I drank this wine all summer long while camped out at the Scotty’s Table patio, and I’m still drinking it as it’s a fantastic white year-round. The color is a delightful pale lemon with a green sheen. Its aromas of pineapple, melons, apple and apricots stand out, while subtle traces of white flower blossoms and herbs linger on the edge. In the mouth, this wine is zesty and fresh with just a slight tingle of fizz. Flavors of peach and apricot, green apple, pineapple, grapefruit, melon and lime zest dance on your taste buds, which is beautifully balanced with the wine’s refreshing acidity and mouthwatering minerality. Pair this wine with gnocchi with butter, sage and Parmesan sauce, any type of fish or with a simple antipasto.

Robert Keenan, Merlot Reserve, Mailbox Vineyard, Spring Mountain District, California ($52). In August, I had the pleasure of dining with acclaimed winemaker Michael Keenan. His relentless passion for viticulture and winemaking captures the charm and personality of the vineyards and years of family tradition in each bottle he produces. One of my favorite wines of the evening was the Merlot Reserve Mailbox Vineyard. It is 100 percent estate Merlot; its name references the original location of the winery’s Merlot vines, near the mailboxes on Spring Mountain. Though the original vines had to be ripped out due to phylloxera – a tiny insect that attacks the roots – they’ve since replanted, along with the mailbox, to stay true to the origins of Mailbox Vineyard Merlot. This is a superb Merlot, bursting with lush red fruit, blackberry, cassis interwoven with violets, licorice, espresso, cherry liqueur and toasted caramel. Poultry, red meat, pork, pastas, salads – this wine can handle anything you throw at it.

Abeja Viognier, Walla Walla, Washington ($36). I enjoyed this wine at the Red Bird during a fantastic wine dinner created by Jim Tracey and Laura Waters in October. They matched this wine to a spot prawn-filled ravioli in a red curry-prawn broth accompanied by a toasted cumin-Serrano chili-pear slaw. This pairing was genius and my mouth is watering as I recall the course. The Abeja Viognier has to be one of the best Viogniers I have had recently. The Viognier is a 100 percent estate fruit, and carefully cropped to less than 2 tons per acre. It is then very carefully pressed and barrel fermented in neutral French oak, resulting in a wine with prominent tropical fruit flavors and a hint of jasmine and orange blossoms. It is truly an amazingly full-bodied, flavorful and exotic wine. I flew through a case of this wine already and have been back for more. From now on I will always have this wine on hand.

Ted the Mule Syrah-Grenache, Côtes du Rhône, France ($10). This is a wine I selected in November for its quality and price to pair with the recession. This wine has a fruity kick with lots of grape, cassis, black cherry and plum flavors backed by smoke, spice, creamy tannins and a long, sweet finish. This wine is surely a crowd pleaser and a perfect accompaniment for roast lamb, duck and soft, nutty cheeses.
So there you have it, a hedonistic list of my favorite wines of 2008. Let’s all raise a glass to the great memories of 2008 and even better ones to come in 2009. And a huge thanks to all of you for your continued interest and support. Happy New Year!